Special to the Alpine Mountaineer
When a restaurant that’s earned a community’s faithful patronage and enduring affection closes its doors, a sense of loss and period of mourning ensue. Such was the case with Bill’s Villager in Blue Jay, which served its last meals in November 2022.
The establishment was revered for an unpretentious setting, extensive menu focusing on classic American cookery, friendly service and basic value for one’s dining dollar.
Sporting a completely renovated interior, The Villager Coffee Shop carries on the tradition of its predecessor, emphasizing wholesome cookery and warm hospitality. (Photo by T. Wilcox)
About half a year later, in May 2023, the mourning gave way to morning when The Villager Coffee Shop opened on the same premises with the same set of appealing characteristics. Martin Montion purchased the business from Bill and Linda Miller, longtime proprietors of the original eatery who had decided to retire. With more than a superficial facelift in mind, Martin (pronounced MarTEEN) invested in a major interior renovation that took several months to complete. The new look in the long, narrow dining room displays a mostly black-gray-white motif and comfortable booth seating illuminated by designer lighting. There’s also an appealing bar facing the kitchen.
The owner is a mountain restaurateur with impressive credentials. Martin emigrated with his family from Mexico in 1993, when he was 15. Initially, they lived in Seal Beach. Ten years later, though, the family relocated to Big Bear, where they opened a Mexican restaurant. Success inspired them to launch a sibling eatery: Toni’s Kitchen in Crestline, overlooking Lake Gregory. It’s now owned by one of Martin’s sisters, Irene.
There’s more. . . Martin proved to be an exceptionally able businessman and talented proprietor. He opened Hortencia’s in Skyforest, which ultimately was purchased by his brother Jose and renamed Rosalva’s. In an especially ambitious move, Martin acquired The Cliffhanger on Highway 18 above Crestline and renamed it Hortencia’s at the Cliffhanger. That was 2016. Then, some four years later, he opened Blue Jay Burgers in the former McDonald’s franchise near Jensen’s. After that it was El Pajuro Azul in the Rite Aid center and, most recently, The Villager itself.
Isn’t that almost too much to handle? “Not really,” says Martin. “I love what I do, and I have really good people working for me.” Among them are two of his now adult children, who are servers at The Villager. And Jazmin Martinez, the restaurant’s manager, has worked with Martin since 2014.
He pauses for a thoughtful moment. Then: “I’m very much at home in my restaurants. This is where I want to be. And when my customers feel the same way, it makes me very happy.” That’s a profoundly simple and effective formula for restaurant success.
On the Menu
The All-American breakfast is one of the most popular morning meals at The Villager. The unspoken, but obvious, question is “Are you hungry?” (Photo by Jazmin Martinez)
As was the case with Bill’s Villager, breakfast is the most popular meal here. According to Martin, the two most frequently ordered selections are The Hungry Villager and The All-American. The first is a $17 feast comprising two pieces of French toast, three eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns or mountain potatoes and biscuits with gravy. Cultivate a hardy appetite for this one! As for The All-American, it’s a slightly more modest ensemble of two pancakes or French toast, two eggs, bacon or sausage, and hash browns or mountain potatoes ($11).
Among many other options are New York strip steak and eggs ($17), a quintet of omelets ($13), buttermilk-fried chicken paired with a Belgian waffle ($14) and eggs Florentine ($12). FYI, the children’s menu offers picks such as silver-dollar pancakes and “very berry” waffle for $7.
What’s for lunch here? One fail-safe choice is the “black and blue” burger, starring a beef paddy stuffed with blue cheese and finished with a palate-sparking blackening spice. The smoked tri-tip panini is served with arugula, red onion, cheddar cheese and spicy aioli on a grilled roll. Then there’s the fish-and-chips platter, with generous portions of battered cod filets and crispy fries. All three of these selections are $15 and, along with other lunch options, are served from 11 a.m. to closing.
Dinner service begins at 2 p.m. and continues until closing. According to Martin, the most popular item is prime rib ($29), served Friday and Saturday. New York, T-bone and top-sirloin steaks are available as well ($26). Chicken or shrimp Alfredo runs $14, and the hot-honey-glazed salmon is $17. Of course, you’d expect to find meatloaf on the menu, too, and mom’s savory rendition comes in at $18.
You might encounter your friends and neighbors here as well. Such a friendly and flavorful hometown-style eatery is a magnet for diners of like minds.
The Villager Coffee Shop: 27195 Hwy. 189 in Blue Jay; (909) 485-1309; first come, first served; major cards; $7-$29; 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
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