By TIM WILCOX
Special to the Alpine Mountaineer
Restaurateur Larry Cummings is nothing if not well-traveled. That doesn’t mean he’s wandering the globe in search of adventure, though he did visit the Philippines this month. It’s the homeland of his wife, Theresa, who’s co-owner of The Grill at Antlers Inn. (The couple, who met in Westwood, have been married since October 1997.)
Instead, Larry (a native of San Francisco) is well-traveled right here in the Inland Empire. The Cummings, who were mountain residents for some 30 years, now call Menifee home. Larry commutes to and from that Riverside County community six days a week, typically taking about 70 minutes to make a one-way transit.
“I’ve gotten used to it,” Larry says with a wry smile and a self-effacing chuckle.
The Cummings assumed ownership of the The Grill 16 years ago. That was after selling Mandolin Bistro, which they owned and operated in Big Bear, and following a Redlands-based stint for Larry with Bon Appétit Management Company, which provided premium food services to corporations, colleges and universities.
“It proved to be a really good move for us,” says Larry, “even though I’d hoped to get a chef friend of mine to run the restaurant. He backed out, and I ended up as the on-site manager and executive chef.”
The main building housing The Grill and anchoring Antlers Inn is nearly 100 years old.
Larry and Theresa invested generously in renovating the defunct space, which had been an Irish pub. Along with other Antlers Inn structures, it was built in 1925. “As you can imagine,” Larry says, “it needed a lot of work to make it not just attractive, but really distinctive.”
A family circle by the restaurant’s fireplace encompasses Don and Beth Johnson (right) with their son-in-law, Brandon Le, daughter, Bonnie, and three grandchildren. Recently relocated to Indiana, the Le family was visiting for Christmas. Don and one of the grandchildren were celebrating their birthdays.
The couple succeeded admirably in that regard, creating an aura of a classy and cozy alpine lodge. It has a well-kept, carefully polished feel without being pretentious.
What about the menu? Larry describes it as “California fusion with a little bit of something for everybody. It’s steak, seafood, pasta and sushi, which means there’s a strong Asian influence, too.”
When Larry began with a sushi bar as an unusual element (at the time) of the Big Bear restaurant: “There were no sushi chefs here in the mountains. I had to learn the art myself so I could teach it to others.” He’s been practicing and polishing this culinary discipline for two decades now, which certainly qualifies him as a sushi maestro. Exquisite presentation is just as important as premium ingredients. Sushi is an edible art form.
On the Menu
The sushi selections in the upstairs bar range from about $16 to $18 and are hand-crafted by another maestro of this oh-so-refined culinary craft, Chris Fujimoto. Downstairs in the more expansive dining room, Larry functions as executive chef, overseeing the work of a sous chef and other kitchen staff. He’s also frequently at the front desk, meeting and greeting diners.
Duck-breast ramen, a Japanese noodle dish, epitomizes the restaurant’s emphasis on and reputation for eye-catching presentation. (Photo courtesy of The Grill at Antlers Inn)
Asked about a signature dish that’s perennially popular with diners, Larry identifies “Caribbean-style salmon with grilled banana, lemon Dijon, beurre blanc and tomato-chutney sauce.” This entrée is tagged at $30. Another surf standout is pan-fried, Macadamia-crusted halibut with grape-tomato jus ($36).
Fail-safe orders on the turf lineup are rosemary chicken ($28), “jerk style” pork Porterhouse with guava barbecue sauce ($32), reserved-cut ribeye steak ($42) and center-cut filet mignon ($50). These and other entrées are served with various sides, such as house-whipped Yukon gold potato, grilled asparagus and risotto.
Five pasta picks highlight the menu as well, ranging from $22 to $26. One stellar choice is the shrimp-and-scallop spaghettini with shallots, capers, garlic and fresh herbs bathed in a champagne cream sauce. The remaining quartet: three-cheese tortellini, chicken and penne Gorgonzola (bleu cheese aged three to six months), tequila chicken fettuccine and Bolognese spaghettini. Like their sushi-tidbit siblings, all of the entrées display artistic presentation. They look as good as they taste!
Ditto for appetizers such as calamari with pepperoncini and sweet chili sauce ($15), Thai salad with ahi tuna ($18), tempura avocado with raspberry rémoulade ($14) and Cajun-seared ahi tuna sashimi ($16).
So what’s this well-traveled owner/chef/meeter/greeter most proud of regarding The Grill? Larry pauses for a suitably pensive moment, then responds: “I’m proud of our strong ‘return business’ culture—our many loyal customers—and also exceptionally high ratings online,” he says. Among other accolades, Larry mentions multiyear Award of Excellence recognition from Tripadvisor, an influential website. This too: “Being able to provide exceptional, yet still affordable, dinners for the locals.”
And what does he enjoy the most? “That’s easy,” Larry says. “Every day is different.” Full of challenges and rewards, as well as unrelenting hard work, the restaurant business is predictably unpredictable. “For the most part,” declares this accomplished proprietor, “that’s a really positive thing!”
The Grill at Antlers Inn: 26125 Hwy. 189 in Twin Peaks; (909) 336-2600; reservations suggested, especially on weekends; major cards; $9-$50; 4:30-8:30 p.m. Sun. and Tues.-Thurs., 4:30-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat., closed Mon.
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