Let’s Dine Out – Puglia Italian Restaurant

By TIM WILCOX

Special to the Alpine Mountaineer

Italy is one of the planet’s preeminent tourist destinations: myriad historic sites, splendid art and architecture, vineyard-covered hills and snowy Alps, Mediterranean and Adriactic coasts, and world-renowned cuisine. But it’s expensive, time-consuming and stressful (airports and hours aloft) to visit this great country, whose roots go back to the ancient Greeks. Especially with world-renowned cuisine in mind, a far more manageable option is easily accessible in our mountain communities: Puglia Italian Restaurant.

Puglia (pronounced Poo-lee-ah) is a picturesque southern region of Italy forming the nation’s “boot.” Rich in visual and edible cultures, it’s the home turf of Antonello Zito, who owns the restaurant. Exceptionally ebullient and gregarious, he personifies the country’s venerable tradition of hospitality.

Antonello came to our mountains about seven years ago, drawn first and foremost by a 25-year friendship with Kiesha Smith, who’s now his wife. They met in Siena, Italy, while Antonello was a college student. (He holds three master’s degrees.) Kiesha relocated here some 17 years ago and now is a vice president for Dignity Health, a California-based nonprofit that operates America’s fifth-largest hospital system. Justifiably proud of his mate, Antonello speaks of her in glowing terms. He’s especially grateful to Kiesha because she helped him get settled here, encouraged him to open the restaurant and provided essential financial backing. Appropriately, then, she’s a 50 percent partner in the business.

“I honestly couldn’t have done it without her,” Antonello says. Much more than her investment, it was her unwavering belief that the venture would become successful. She saw the potential in the building that for years had been a famous restaurant, Casual Elegance, frequented by celebrities such as Patrick Swayze.

Resembling an Italian country cottage, the structure hinted at the potential for the charming establishment it is today, inside and out. Antonello also expresses heartfelt appreciation for Dan Parker, from whom he leases the property. “Dan’s support made a huge difference, particularly during the first two years after we opened,” says Antonello, which was in December 2017.

“That was a really tough time, and I lost a lot of money,” he continues. “Everybody was asking me, ‘Why don’t you close the place?’ I also worried about my employees.”

One of them was Davide Laera, who accompanied Antonello to the mountains when he was in his late teens. Also from Putignano, Antonello’s small hometown (famous for a centuries-old carnival), he’s the son of one of his closest friends.

“Before we opened, Davide and another friend did a lot of work on the restaurant’s interior,” says Antonello. “Then I trained him in the kitchen, and he became an excellent chef. More than that, he stuck with me through the hard times, and now he’s my manager.”

Antonello, Davide and other dedicated staff members – including Maison Taylor, a local who’s now head chef – pooled their efforts and energy to resist the specter of closing. Surprisingly, revenues doubled and even tripled during COVID-19. “We almost had more takeout business than we could handle,” recalls Davide, “with some orders as big as $800 or $900.” Word-of-mouth kept sales strong and, when the pandemic finally faded, the dine-in traffic was consistently robust.

What’s the secret to Puglia’s priceless repeat business? “We’re not afraid to be authentic,” Davide responds. “We’re true Italians, doing everything in the kitchen how we do it in the south of Italy – the old-fashioned way.” He adds that “we show that authenticity, too, in the way we greet and treat people, like they were family. You just feel that you’re in Italy when you’re here.”

Antonello agrees: “This is a family restaurant, because in its in our nature to pay attention to everyone who comes here. I love getting to know our customers and making them feel that they’re valued not just for their business, but for who they are as people.”

The restaurant’s superlative cuisine is the other key to Puglia’s success. As a masterful chef with many years of training and experience, Antonello sets the culinary tone and ensures the highest standards. That goes for appetizers, salads, soups, pastas and entrées, of course. It also applies to the restaurant’s pizzas. Last year, in November, Antonello captured the title of “Best Pizza Napoletana in Italy.” His prize-winning rendition of this traditional pie has a healthful and flavorful foundation of low-gluten dough that requires 72 hours to rise. The antithesis of fast food, it’s available only at Puglia.

Importantly, too, Antonello will be competing this month for the title of “World Champion of Pizza” at the International Pizza Expo & Conference in Las Vegas. “I’m really nervous,” he admits with a laugh, adding that he’s guarding his expectations.

Significantly as well, Antonello owns and operates Palmina by Puglia Restaurant in the heart of Palm Springs – named for his mother and one of the desert resort’s most popular eateries. As a result, he’s a “Ping-Pong proprietor,” visiting both establishments almost every day. Factoring in his frequent forays to Italy – to visit family and friends while checking in with the professional soccer team the restaurant sponsors and also the Italian heavyweight boxing champion whom he advises as nutritionist – Antonello could be a candidate for “World Champion of Mileage.”

On the Menu

Spark your appetite with antipasti such as Caprese Tradizionale (sliced tomatoes with mozzarella and basil leaves topped with extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic glaze; $19) and Tagliere di Salumi (sweet and spicy salamis with prosciutto crudo di Parma, mozzarella and Parmigiano cheeses, and truffle-infused honey; $33). Two excellent salads, each $20 and featuring varied premium ingredients, are the Arugola Caprese and Insalata Mediterannea. As for soups, the $15 homemade minestrone is a traditional best bet.

Nearly 20 pastas and entrées constitute Puglia’s main-course slate. Following are just a few examples.

• Tortellini Zia Pia: Cheese-stuffed pasta tossed with panna cream, mozzarella and diced proscitutto crudo ($27).
• Rigatoni Bolognese: Pasta topped with homemade meat sauce, Italian ham, ground beef, ground pork, tomato sauce, herbs, spices, onion, carrots and celery ($25).
• Spaghetti Zito: This is Antonello’s signature recipe, starring spaghetti tossed in white wine, extra-virgin olive oil and lemon with wild shrimp, roasted garlic, parsley, black pepper and diced tomato ($32).
• Beef and Sausage Ragu: Rigatoni pasta crowned with slow-cooked chunks of Italian sausage and black Angus beef with bell peppers, potatoes, red onion, carrots, celery and bay leaves ($27).
• Chicken Piccata: Two chicken breasts, thin sliced and lightly floured, cooked in white wine and extra-virgin olive oil with capers, lemon and Italian parsley ($33).
• Peperone Ripieno: Bell pepper stuffed with ground beef and pork, herbs, spices and mozzarella cheese, then finished with bread crumbs, Parmigiano reggiano and Puglia’s custom Bolognese sauce ($25).

Pizza is a fail-safe option, as we’ve noted. Also, we’d suggest that you ponder the merits of house specials such as Kobe beef ribeye, New Zealand lamb chops, Mediterranean seabass and lobster ravioli. Please note that their prices and availabity are variable.

A paragraph from the main menu neatly illustrates the restaurant’s philosophical and practical commitment to quality and authenticity:

“Our olive oil is sourced through personal relationships with a family producing the finest oil from [Puglia], one of the only regions in Italy that has maintained the strictest policies of purity. These olive trees are hundreds of years. . . old and are therefore harvested mostly by hand. They [the family] have been in business since 1600 and began winning prestigious awards for this incredible oil in 1901.”

There’s no room here to highlight Puglia’s superb list of artisanal white and red wines, which respresent the finest vintages from all over Italy. We’ll merely mention, too, Mastri Birrai Umbri, which is an award-winning Italian craft beer.

Briefly as well and simply FYI, among Antonello’s culinary credentials is “consummate pastry chef.” In a few weeks, then, he’ll debut some of his delectable dolci at the restaurant. And simply to spark your curiosity, we’ll dangle a dish titled Carbonara. It’s an extraordinary special (no exaggeration) that’s not on the menu. Ask your server or Chef Zito himself to share the details.

Puglia Italian Restaurant: 26848 Hwy. 189 in Blue Jay; (909) 744-8859; reservations recommended; major cards, Apple Pay, Google Pay; $11-$33; 5 to 8:30 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 4 to 9 p.m. Fri., 2 to 9 p.m. Sat. and Sun., 1:30 to 9 pm; special events and catering.