When age is just a number – One woman’s pilgrimage on El Camino

“Walking is the best way to see a country. Well, maybe not all countries, but the best way to see this one.” – Ethel

 

By Megan Miller
Special to the Alpine Mountaineer

How did you spend your summer?

Ethel Mohler decided to take a walk. A long walk. In Spain.

Ethel, 88, completed the El Camino trail this past June, becoming the eldest walker to do so this year.

When Ethel was in her 60’s she became interested in mountain hiking. Over the next 14 years, she hiked to the top of most of the peaks in Southern California. These include: Mt. Whitney (14,505 feet), White Mountain (14,246 feet), Mt. Baldy (10,064 feet) and Mt. San Gorgonio (11,503 feet), as well as Mt. San Jacinto, Mt. Baden-Powell, Mammoth Mountain and, finally, Mt. Lassen near Redding. She has been an avid hiker on the numerous trails we are fortunate to have in our area but, in recent, years has limited herself to shorter hikes.

Last year in one of those moments that are hard to explain, she felt called to hike the El Camino in Spain. It’s a daunting endeavor for those half her age.

The El Camino might be somewhat likened to the Pacific Crest Trail or the Appalachian Trail here in the United States. It has a much richer history, however, being one of the major pilgrimages for Christians since the beginning of the 9th century. At that time, relics of the Apostle James were found in Galicia, Spain. A cathedral was erected, and it became a destination for the faithful and later for those who simply enjoy hiking. It is recognized as a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

There are several routes on the El Camino that lead ultimately to the cathedral, Santiago de Compostela. The route chosen by Ethel and her husband, Fritz Ward, was the picturesque 101 kilometers (approximately 63 miles) from Vigo, near the border of Portugal and Spain, to the city of Santiago de Compostela, where the cathedral is located. The route follows an old Roman road and is a popular choice among pilgrims. The walk took eight days to complete, traveling an average of 10 miles per day.

The journey was varied in terrain, and there were some days when it was fairly grueling. Ethel maintained her spirits with the help of Fritz, the beautiful location and an assortment of younger hikers they met along the way who cheered her on and asked if they might photograph her. Fritz had posted their walk on Facebook and was surprised to discover that there were many people following online and offering their good wishes as well.

At meals in the evenings, she was intrigued that wine was served before each meal, even before a menu was presented. She says the ice cream in Spain is different – but very good! While the walk was bountiful in history and companionship externally, it was also rich in opportunities to reflect and promote inner peace.

At the end of the journey, Ethel received her Compostela, a document confirming her completion of the pilgrimage. The Pilgrim Office at the cathedral also confirmed that not only was she the oldest pilgrim to complete walking the Camino this year, she is among the oldest ever to do so.

Ethel now has her eye on a stateside companion walk to the El Camino, located in and around San Antonio, Texas. This pilgrimage visits four different Spanish missions and a cathedral. The cathedral, San Fernando, is the oldest continuously functioning cathedral in the U.S.

It seems that for Ethel, the El Camino was just the beginning.

Author’s note: Thanks to Fritz Ward for his contributions to this article and to Ethel Mohler – you are an inspiration to us all!